Photo 2

Move in day in the brand new home. What a joyous occasion…until the man of the house spilled bleach on the brand spanking new carpet in the middle of the master bedroom floor. (Photo 1)

Photo 3

What was he doing with bleach in the master bedroom you ask on moving day? Good question; I never did get a straight answer, but figuring it was a touchy subject, I didn’t pursue it.

Photo 4

OK, that’s the problem; here’s what I did to fix it. First I made sure there was enough carpet left to provide a patch. There was; remember, it was brand new and just installed.

Photo 5

Then I determined the length of the patch and made two parallel cuts. Next I started opening the rows with a row separator, then cutting down the rows for the side or length seams with a cushion back cutter. (Photos 2 and 3)

Photo 6

Using a carpenter’s square, I cut the first cross seam from the face on the side with the nap flowing away from the seam edge. (Photo 4)

Photo 7

Although this did shear naps, the seam edge is a clean cut because the nap flows away and the sheared naps are on the part being replaced. (Photo 5 and 6)

Photo 8

Next the width of the piece being replaced is measured and a piece the corresponding width is cut using a loop pile cutter. (Photos 8 and 9) 

Photo 9

Why a loop pile cutter? So I don’t run the risk of cutting the carpet underneath.

Photo 10

Well, I used to say that too, for years, until I had a problem…now I use a loop pile cutter.

Photo 11

The length of the patch is measured and cut using a square. (Photos 10, 11, and 11a) 

Photo 11a

The patch is now cut with the length or side seams cut down parallel rows and each end or cross seam cut with a carpenter square at a right angle to the sides.

Photo 12

The patch is sealed on all sides using a hot glue gun with a special sealing tip, instead of latex. There are two on the market, one by Gundlach and one from Orcon.

Photo 13

I don’t really care which one you use, but if you are not using one of them, run do not walk to your local supply house and get one. Using them will virtually eliminate your seam peaking problems! (read “Latest and Greatest in Seaming Technology” September 2002 issue on line at www.fcimag.com) I digress, sorry.

Photo 14

I also seal three sides of the cut out area; only three because I haven’t cut the fourth side that is yet to come. (Photos 12 and 13)

Photo 15

I lay out the tape on three sides and lock the patch in place using a Kool Glide Seaming Tool. (Photos 14, 15, and 16) 

Photo 16

This tool is not an iron, but uses radio waves to heat a special tape made for this tool. The tool is used from the face of the carpet transmitting the radio waves through the carpet and heating the tape.

Photo 17

It is the bee’s knees for doing repairs. And in answer to your question, yes I am using my toolbox tray for a seam weight.

Photo 18

Normally this is a no-no, but the bottom of this tray is vented to allow the heat and moisture from the seam to escape, so it’s OK.

Photo 19

With the three sides of the patch locked in place, it is now time to cut the fourth and final seam edge. The trick is to cut the last part of the removed area straight, matching to the patch and without shearing naps.

Photo 20

I fold the last part to be cut and mark the back with a dot using a marker where the cut edge will met the edge of the patch. (Photo 17) I place a dot every couple of inches and then cut with a small square from each dot to the next. (Photos 18 and 19) I use the connecting dot method, which was taught to me years ago in Chicago by Roger Searle, an installer who worked with me, for patches and doorway seams.

Photo 21

If you try to cut close on a fold you will get a bow in the cut and the center will be short, not the ideal outcome. Back to the patch, the final cut, as shown in Photo 20 and the completed patch, as shown in Photo 21. Everybody was happy, especially the man of the house whose name was no longer Mud.