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The installer is configuring the
layout to ensure the floor will be balanced.
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As laminate flooring continues to
gain in popularity, the need for proper installations grows in importance. For
peace of mind, a laminate floor certified to NALFA standards is a good place to
start. These brands can easily be
referenced at www.nalfa.com.
Through my
experience teaching professional installers and also my years of installing, I
have found there are several common mistakes that might occur during
installations. Fortunately, these
mistakes are easy to avoid.
Laminate Needs to Float
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Anthony Palandro is demonstrating
how to find the dead zone, which is an easy way to make sure each row ends with
the appropriate size piece.
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Laminate
flooring must float. Sometimes the installer gets comfortable and forgets this
basic rule. A ¼” to 3/8” expansion,
depending on the product, is required at all vertical obstructions including
doorframes and at each transition strip.
Doorframes:
When undercutting doorframes, the installer should confirm there is enough room
for expansion. This may require cutting
back the sheet rock. It is also necessary
to cut the baseboard back from the casing about one inch. This will give the floor room to expand or
contract in all directions.
Transition
strips: Transition strips become problematic if an installer uses construction
adhesive to secure the strip to the subfloor.
If too much adhesive is used, it oozes on the flooring and locks the
entire floor in place. If it is
necessary to use an adhesive to secure the subfloor, silicone is a strong
adhesive and remains flexible. I
recommend using the track that is included.
On wood subfloors, I recommend screwing the track down. On concrete, I recommend drilling holes with
a masonry bit and fastening the track with plastic anchors and screws.