How to Repair Carpet Seams
by Dave Garden
June 7, 2010
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| Photo 1: This seam can be fixed. |
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| Photo 2: A simple fix may involve the use of a steamer. |
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I keep hearing about the economy
from installers. It seems some installers find it easy to blame a bad economy
for lack of business. When work is down,
it means you need to create some. One of the best ways of doing this is repairs.
Nothing feeds the ego better than getting a phone call asking you to fix a job
that you had previously lost to someone that underbid you. In an effort to cut costs many jobs end up
with terrible seam placement. This, on top of a weak labor force makes for a
lot of unsightly seams. (Photo 1)
If a seam is correctly installed, you could pull the carpet back and
spread adhesive between the carpet and the cushion. In order to correct this,
the seam needs to have been properly constructed. In most cases, seams are
peaked due to poor construction. (Photo
2)
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| Photo 3: A light source could be your demise. |
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onstruction. (Photo 2)
Fixing these seams can improve your bottom line. Before you start tearing
anything apart, you must understand that you are there for a reason. You are
there to solve the issue. The customer doesn’t need to know how bad the
other installer was. They would not have called you if they were happy. Make
absolutely certain that you can fix the issue.
Once you touch it, it is yours. The first thing I tell my customers is
that there is no easy “fix.” In most
cases, the seam was not sealed and it requires the skills to completely
reconstruct it.
Another common “seam” problem is seam placement. Most of the seams that I
remake are placed on an angle or directly across the light source of the
room. When the installer does this, the
light from the window will causes a shadow to be cast directly on the seam.
Installers try to pass this off as sidematch or color variation. By the time I get there, placing blame for
the issue is a mute point; the customer just wants it fixed. (Photo 3)
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| Photo 4: Patience is important. |
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Depending on the placement of the seam, the surrounding installation,
location and size of the furniture; my repair methods could vary. If the seam
is correctly constructed but placed in a bad location, ripping it apart can be
tricky. In most cases, there will be gaps in the seam, ledging or overlapping
causing the seam to look unsightly.
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| Photo 5: Take
your time; you may have to remove adhesive clumps from backing. |
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When you make a decision to remake a seam, you are completely redoing the
entire room. After the room is folded back, you must carefully remove the seam
tape from the carpet with an iron. It is important to make sure the bottom of
the iron is clean. Take your time with this procedure. It is always good to
work with someone who is as patient as you are. (Photos 4 and 5)
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| Photo 6: When working with a pattern you may have
to reuse the existing edge. Cleanup is important. |
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If we are working with a pattern, we cannot compromise the seam edge.
Remember when you are working with a pattern, the alignment of the pattern is
the most important thing. It is not always possible to remove a couple of rows
from the carpet edge. (Photo 6)
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| Photo 7: Using thermoplastic to seal seam reduces
peaking. This works. Sell it as part of
your seaming system. |
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Before we seal the edge, we need to make sure it is clean. After we have
removed the seam tape, we are left with glue “chunks.” These need to be removed
or you could end up leaving the same mess you walked into. When I seal the
seams, I like to use thermoplastic. The peak buster tip has not failed me yet.
One thing to remember is to be very careful. In many cases the old seam tape
adhesive is already filling a lot of the voids on the carpet edge. By using
thermoplastic, we ensure a bond from both edges of the carpet. This is an
important step in removing the peak in the seam that was unappreciated when we
got there. (Photo 7)
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| Photo 8: No matter what system you use, stay
organized and your day will flow better. |
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After all this preparation, we are ready to seam the carpet back
together. Here we have some more choices. What seaming system should we use?
Depending on the situation, I have three choices; (a) use a conventional 3-inch
iron; (b) use a 6-inch iron of (c) use a Koolglide iron. All three have
advantages for certain situations. For this procedure, I do not use my
conventional 3” iron as often. I need it
to be clean for removing seam tape from the carpet. When I do use my 3” iron, I
like to make sure I use a seam tape with urethane in the adhesive. This burns
thin and uses less adhesive. Yet, it sticks to everything and penetrates the
secondary backing very good. By doing this, I do not have to deal with causing
a profile effect in the seam that I am trying to correct. (Photo 8)
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| Photo 9: There are many advantages to a 6” iron. |
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The second method uses a 6” conventional seaming iron. Over the years
this has been my favorite method. I know a lot of installers who do not see the
value in using a 6” iron, but you cannot argue the results. Whenever I get into
a situation where I have to remake a seam in a great room, especially when it
is placed across the light source, I prefer using a 6” iron. Any room that has
a seam over 4’ from the wall is my personal rule. Something important to
remember when you start tearing apart work is what type of seam tape to use. The seam tape you select is very important.
When using my 6” iron to remake seams, I do not like to use a seam tape with a
lot of adhesive on it. You have to remember there will be adhesive left behind
from the old seam tape. The 6” tape spreads the adhesive out. This is another
way to help reduce the peaking in seams. (Photo 9)
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| Photo 10: Using the Koolglide Seaming System can be
very effective. |
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The third method is
somewhat new to the industry. There are many advantages to using the Koolglide
Iron. Remaking seams is a real good one. If I have furniture that for whatever
reason cannot be moved out of a room, this becomes my favorite tool. When I am working in tight quarters, I bring
out a couple of pattern stretchers or double-headed crab jacks to stretch my
seam in to place. I also like to use a tool called The Seamer Down. This tool
works really well. Its main function is
to cool the seam quicker. I find it has some added benefits though. It actually
helps to pull the adhesive from the seam tape through the secondary backing
into the primary backing. This is just one more way to get better penetration
from your seam tape.
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| Photo 11: You cannot go wrong by doing your seam
on a flat wood surface. |
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By using the Koolglide in conjunction with my
Seamer Down, I can move my iron wherever it benefits me to make a good seam.
The seam tape is also wider than conventional seam tape and it is made from a
urethane-based adhesive. There are a ton of positives here. The adhesive burns thinner and the wider seam
tape helps to reduce peaking. (Photos 10
and 11)
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| Photo 12: I
use a Seamer Down as part of my total seaming equipment. |
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No matter what method I choose, I like to put seam boards underneath the
carpet. By doing this I eliminate many potential problems. My seam tape will
never stick to the cushion. Remember, we have to work with the cushion that is
in place. The heat that is generated can end up compromising the cushion. For
some reason, I do not get any seam ledging when I work on a hard surface. When
I am working on concrete, I am allowed to stay nail the seam on both sides when
necessary into the seam boards. If I am careful with my iron temperature, I can
work as slow as I want. Also, the Seamer Down allows me a little flexibility by
cooling the seam off quicker. (Photo 12)
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| Photo 13: Same
bad light source, but a much better seam. |
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All three of these
methods work. Of course, they all have their separate applications. It is
important to remember first and foremost, repair work is no place for
shortcuts. Make sure you give yourself enough time and resources to do the job
properly.
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| Photo 14: A satisfied customer is also a future
customer. |
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Make sure you give yourself enough time and
resources to do the job properly. If you do not deliver the goods, your
customer will be right back at square one, and collecting your fee could get
tricky. (Photos 13 and 14)
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