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| Photo 1 |
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With the increasing awareness of
“green” building practices, the use of flooring made from sustainable,
renewable products, such as linoleum continues to grow. Linoleum is composed of
mainly natural products such as linseed oil, cork flour, wood flour, pine resin
and jute backing. These differences will affect installation and maintenance
recommendations; failure to understand and follow these recommendations can
lead to expensive and unpleasant results.
Heat
welding of linoleum is the popular seam treatment for commercial settings,
where the majority of linoleum is specified and installed. The tools and
techniques for heat welding linoleum are similar for heat welding sheet vinyl
flooring; however there are some distinct differences.
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One of the
greatest differences between welding sheet vinyl and linoleum is the welding
rod or thread. Welding rod for sheet vinyl is made from PVC and will not bond
to the natural ingredients in linoleum. Linoleum welding rod is made from a
thermal plastic material similar to a hot melt glue stick. The difference in
the two welding rods is easily identifiable by trying to break a small piece of
each by hand. The PVC welding rod will
stretch, while the linoleum rod will break easily.
Because of
this difference, most linoleum manufacturers recommend heat welding at lower
temperatures than sheet vinyl flooring to avoid melting the linoleum welding
rod into a liquid, and to prevent discoloring the linoleum flooring at the
seam.
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| Photo 2A |
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The first
step to a quality heat welded seam is a well cut, well bonded seam. Be sure to
follow manufacturer’s recommendations for seam cutting, and the amount of time
needed after adhering the linoleum for the adhesive to set before heat welding.
The time will vary from 10 to 24
hours depending on the manufacturer.
With
linoleum it is important not to cut the seams too tight; linoleum has a
tendency to grow slightly in the width and to shrink slightly in the length.
Leaving a slight gap in the seam (not more than 1/64”) will accommodate the
growth in the linoleum and provide a track for rolling groovers.
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| Photo 3 |
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Proper
grooving of the seam is critical to a successful weld; the groove must be
centered on the seam, of the proper width for the welding rod, and grooved to
the correct depth of at least 2/3 of the thickness of the linoleum. For example
most manufacturers recommend grooving 2mm and 2.5mm linoleum down to the top of
the jute backing. This will provide a good surface for the welding rod to bond
with. A groove that is too shallow will result in the welding rod pulling out
when trimmed.
The tools
used for grooving range from hand groovers to electric and manual rolling
groovers. Hand groovers will work on short seams, however they can be difficult
to use as linoleum chips can clog the blades, preheating the seams with a heat
gun can help to prevent this but generally it is impractical to hand groove
long seams.
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| Photo 3A |
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Electric groovers
will work well on linoleum providing they are well maintained with a sharp
blade (to avoid chipping the edges of the groove) Complications can be
encountered if the groover does not have a “floating base” or the ability to
adjust to deviations in substrate flatness. Nothing is harder on a grooving
blade than cutting into a concrete substrate. Also a functioning dust bag is
critical to good indoor air quality on the job.
Non-electric rolling groovers like the new Marmo Groovers work very well,
even accommodating curves and circles. (See Photo 1) Some rolling groovers will
require preheating the seam to prevent the blade from clogging; sharp blades
are a must to prevent chipping the groove edges.
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| Photo 4 |
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Marmo
groovers, recently introduced to the market have a unique patented design which
does not require pre-heating and consistently groove to the jute backing
regardless of deviations in floor flatness. They will not chip the groove edges
and their special design will not clog. They create no dust makes no noise and
can accurately groove to the jute backing in two passes. (See Photos 2, 2A, 3,
and 3A)
Whether
using an automatic welder or a hand held welder; welding linoleum requires the
correct temperature and using slight pressure at the tip to force the melted
weld rod into the groove. Welding at a consistent, steady pace down the seam is
critical to a solid, strong seam.
Moving too
slow will produce a charring of the linoleum, a brown to black color at the seam.
Moving too quickly or inconsistently will produce a “cold weld” or “cold spots”
that will result in the welding rod pulling out of the seam when skived or
trimmed.
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| Photo 5 |
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Skiving is
the processes of trimming the weld rod flush to the surface of the linoleum.
Traditional skiving tools are quarter moon or spatula knives and a trim plate.
Skiving should be done in two passes, unless using a one pass tool as shown
here. (See Photo 5)
The first
pass removes the top half of the weld rod decreasing the resistance on the
blade when making the final pass flush to the linoleum surface.
Linoleum manufacturers recommend
making the first pass while the rod is still warm, if the first pass is made
after the rod has cooled any area of the welded seam that is not well bonded
will release and the weld rod will pull out of the groove. It is not uncommon
to see an installer following the welder making the first skiving pass.
Once the
first pass is made, allow the weld to cool completely before making the final
pass. Making the final pass too soon can cause the seam weld to be concave,
which can lead to unsightly dirt buildup from normal foot traffic. Skiving too
soon can also cause the skive knife to dig into the surface of the warm
linoleum; it can also leave small amounts of weld rod on either side of the
seam, requiring extra work to remove.
To get a
clean final skive; allow the weld rod to cool completely. Newer planning
systems replace the traditional two pass method, skiving the weld rod in one
pass. Adjusting the plane leaves a smooth and flush finish every time. (See
Photos 4 and 5)
Once the
welded seam is completed, some manufacturers recommend applying a coat of commercial floor polish over the weld to help
keep it clean until the floor receives protective maintenance.
With
recent improvements in heat welding tools it is easier than ever to weld
linoleum with greater consistency, whether straight or radius seams.