However, when dealing with a nationwide method of instruction and certification, one in which all the instructors need to be working from the same page, the challenge becomes a little more daunting.

One of the problems with upholstered stairs is that every installer approaches them in a different manner. If one member of the crew starts the work, that same crew member needs to finish it. For the average shop that maintains one to six crews, this does not present much of a problem.

However, when dealing with a nationwide method of instruction and certification, one in which all the instructors need to be working from the same page, the challenge becomes a little more daunting.

To help combat this problem, CFI Master Installer Fred Chastain developed his "True Cut" method for upholstering stairs. Now being taught nationwide by the CFI, the premise is simple: if all the stairs are cut in the same manner, they will all look the same.

The following shows a step-by-step look at Chastain's technique with a small exception at the reveal (the back portion of the stair). Chastain uses a glue gun extensively on stairs, as do I, but my approach is a wee bit different. Stairs can be upholstered, using a glue gun, without staples. I prefer to use one staple for added security.

Strip and pad the stair, taking care to place tackless completely around the spindles. I place a strip of duct tape on the nose to prevent pad breakdown and extend carpet life.

To obtain a net measure, cut a 1-inch-wide strip of carpet the width of the stair. Measure it. The strip will be 1/4-to-1/2-inch longer than the measure taken with a steel tape.

In this case, the tape measured 34 inches, while the strip of carpet measured 34 1/4 inches.

Do each stair individually, splitting the carpet around the spindles along the carpet length, not width. This makes the installation easier and produces better seams. Stretch the carpet into place.

Glue the seams between the spindles together with a hot-glue gun.

Cut straight out from the point of the stair. This is Point A.

Leave approximately 1/2 inch at the bottom of the riser and cut out on a 45-degree angle.

Fold the flap around and, using the bottom of the tread as a guide, cut to the edge of the riser. Stop there. This is Point B.

Cut from Point A to Point B.

Fold the flap under, covering the gap from the base of the riser to the tread nose. You may need to trim the flap a bit, but not the Point A to Point B cut.

Here is where the one staple comes in, to hold the turn at the riser base.

Make a cut straight up the riser until the blade hits the bottom of the tread. This is Point C. Cut from Point A to Point C.

Crease the back of the carpet to make the turn easier.

Apply a bead of glue on the cut edge at the nose. Be careful not to get glue on the nap. Apply glue liberally to the carpet backing and fold it around the edge.

Pinch the edges together for a few seconds until the glue grabs.

Trim the excess fuzz.

Cut straight out, top and bottom, from the points on the reveal.

Cut the top and bottom edges net. Cut the flap to reach the wall.

Apply a bead of glue to the cut edges.

Pinch the edges closed until the glue grabs (five to 10 seconds).

Trim the fuzz.

The finished stair: a 24-ounce level loop carpet installed with one staple.