Step 1The cap strip and the cove stick should be installed by either fastening or gluing. Attention must be paid to the miter of the cove stick; this will ensure a clean miter of the material. Any ledging of the cove stick will show on the finished miter. The cap strip is generally fabricated by bending the cap strip eliminating a sharp corner that is vulnerable to being caught and torn off.
Step 2The first thing you have to do is place a notch in the tee template; the notch should be 1/2-inch by the depth of the face of the cap strip. This will allow the template to be placed firmly up into the cap strip without any hindrance by the cap strip and will allow the patterned material to have a uniform over hang to be trimmed after the material is adhered into position.
Step 3After the scribing felt is cut-in and secured with a masking tape to prevent movement, you must decide which side of the corner is going to have the fill piece installed. In this instance I have decided to place the fill on the right side of the corner. This is decided by placing the fill piece on the least noticeable side of the corner.
The scribing process can begin by placing the “tee” template up into the cap strip allowing the notch cut in the template (previous photo) to allow a 1/2-inch overhang at the corner. Note how the template is up into the cap strip. Next the template should be firm into the cove stick. It will require a little force to get the template into position. Once in position, mark the opposite side of the template, the left side to represent the over hang at the corner and the bottom of the template to represent the cap strip. No allowance is required for the lip of the cap strip.
Step 4On the right side of the corner the template is place back from the corner due to the fill piece that is going to be installed at a later time. On this side it is only required to place a single line at the bottom of the template.
Step 5Note that there are only three marks required for this corner. The two on the left represent the cap strip and the overhang at the corner. After double-checking your marks your can remove the pattern felt and move to the transfer area where the material is laid out.
Step 6Lay the material out in an area that will allow the entire piece to lay flat. Once laid out, position the pattern felt on the material being sure you have plenty of material to extend beyond felt about 8 inches. Once the pattern felt is in position secure it with masking tape to prevent any movement. Place the template on the felt and mark the corner with the overhang first; this is the side with the two intersecting marks. Transfer the marks to the opposite side of the template. This will represent the cap strip and the overhang at the corner.
Step 7Now move to the right side of the corner where the fill piece is going to be installed. Place the template so the cap strip is adjacent to the previous marks (Step 6). This avoids any confusion when cutting the material out.
Step 8After both side have been marked. Go back to the bottom of the overhang and extend the line about 1/2-inch out onto the felt. This will allow an overhang at the radius of the cove stick. This too will be trimmed after the material is adhered in position.
Step 9Next, I pull the felt back to complete the preparation for the corner. Since this material has a pattern I am going to place the seam in the least conspicuous place, in this case the grout line. I place a steel square on the material along the grout line. I like to place the square so I cut on the inside of the square. This prevents over cutting the material at the right angle cut. This is a high-stress area and is extremely vulnerable to damage when being installed.
Step 10This is a completed cutout of the outside corner. Note that the juncture of the overhang and the seam the cut is rounded - this helps prevent damage during the installation. Another alternative is to tape the corner with a strong tape to prevent damage during the installation.
Step 11Now is the time to cut out the fill-piece that is going to be inserted after the material is installed. It is easier to do this now while the material is flat. If you elect to do this at a later time, then the task will become more difficult. Cut a matching piece of material, and using a steel square, cut the two side of the material that is where the seam is going to be. Next, while the fill piece is in position mark where the top of the cap strip is. This will save you a little time later. Lay the prepared corner fill out of the way to be used after the material is installed.
Step 12After the material is installed, adhered, rolled and cleaned-up, it is time to do the second side of the out side corner. Take a scrap of material and place face-in on the backside of the overhanging piece. It is important to place the scrap face-in; this will give you a true scribe with no interference from any face irregularities transferring to the scribe line. With an outside corner scribe against the scrap piece of material, scribe a light mark from the cap strip down to the top of the cove stick. At this point, the scrap can be removed and discarded.
Step 13With a new blade in the utility knife, you can commence the miter at the cap strip, holding the knife at a 45-degree angle to the face of the material. Make a slow deliberate cut down to the top of the cove stick. Use both hands to prevent any slipping - this is the most delicate of the entire corner process and a slip could have a severe effect on the outcome of the finished corner.
Step 14When you get to the top of the cove stick, allow the knife to drop into the miter of the cove stick and this will guide your knife blade through the radius of the cove stick. When you get to the floor, start a gentle radius cut down to the seam line. This will eliminate the sharp point where the miter meets the seam, which is difficult to fit.
Step 15Place the fill-piece into position by butting the seam on the flat portion of the floor. Be cautious not to attempt to butt the seam through the radius cove and on the vertical portion of the seam. While the material is in position, rub the material with your thumb, at the radius of the miter, to get a transfer of the miter on the back of the material. If you are unable to get a transfer, use some chalk to rub on the edge of the cut miter to obtain a transfer.
Step 16Lay the insert piece face down on a scrap of material. Holding the knife at a 45-degree angle and back from the transfer line about the thickness of the material and cut the radius at the cove stick. Remove this portion of the material and place the corner back into position. With this radius portion of the material removed, it will allow the material to lay snuggly into the cove stick and the seam at the radius and vertical portion of the seam to fit into place.
Step 17With an outside corner scribe mark the line to be cut from the top of the cove stick to the cap strip. Care must be taken not to scribe the line too deep, which rags the face of the material.
Step 18With a recess scribe, mark the line to be cut from the bottom of the cove stick, out onto the floor, and to the seam.
Step 19Remove the fill-piece and lay it on a scrap piece of material. Start the cut at the recess scribed line holding the knife straight up and down and start the cut as you cut the radius and approach the area cut start to lay the knife over to a 45-degree angle to match up with the cut at the bottom cove stick. Remove this scrap of material. Then move up to the outside corner scribed line, and holding you knife on a 45-degree angle to the top of the corner at the cap strip.
Step 20Place the fill piece in to check for fit and make any corrections. Then apply adhesive to the back of the fill-piece and fit it into position. Clean the corner up and apply any seam treatment that may be required.
The outside corner is the height of craftsmanship. When completed a flash cove outside corner is the true meaning of a masterpiece. Installers who are capable of installing flash cove installations are in constant demand and are some of the top installers in the industry.